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Rolex makes roughly 1 million watches a yr, in response to the very best estimates. Appears like a giant quantity, however 9 figures isn’t remotely sufficient to fulfill the frenzied demand of luxurious watches from on a regular basis consumers to athletes with unbelievable watch collections. A pal lately overheard a salesman at his native licensed seller say there are 30,000 individuals at the moment on the “wait checklist.” That is not nationwide, however at that single boutique alone.
The watch for a brand new Rolex from a certified seller is a soul-sucking one, so it’s no surprise these missing a saintly degree of endurance flip to the secondary market. However shopping for “grey” can get sketchy. The market is swimming with counterfeits, with frequent experiences of sellers swindling tens of millions from watch consumers.
There are over 23 million counterfeit watches in circulation within the U.S., with New York topping the checklist of cities the place probably the most pretend watches are bought, in response to a November 2023 examine by luxurious pre-owned watch specialist Watchfinder & Co. Furthermore, half of the watches the corporate was despatched and recognized as pretend or containing pretend components within the final yr was Rolex.
So, how are you going to inform if the watch you’re eyeing is legit? We queried two of the most important sellers within the pre-owned sport on how customers can finest shield themselves from getting hornswoggled by fakes. Whereas not foolproof, they provided these eight ideas you need to use to assist make sure the watch you’re shopping for is real. And if you cannot abdomen the wait or sticker shock of a Rolex, relaxation assured the very best watches for males are nonetheless broadly out there from beloved manufacturers like Bulova, Citizen, G-SHOCK, Movado, Omega, and Seiko. You can even discover nice watches below $1,000 and even watches below $500.
Why You Ought to Belief Me
I’ve been accumulating watches for almost so long as I’ve been capable of inform time. Across the age of 10, I began disassembling pocket watches to see what makes them tick. At this time, I really feel bare if I unintentionally depart the home with out a watch on my wrist—and, sure, I’ll return and get one. (Horology or OCD? Solely my shrink is aware of for certain.) At present, my cache consists of a wide range of classic and up to date items from microbrands to G-SHOCK. Most days, I put on a Rolex Explorer II (Ref. 226570), however my grandmother’s Mickey Mouse watch will all the time be my favourite.
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How one can Spot a Pretend Rolex
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1. The Vendor Is Unauthorized and Untrustworthy
The primary and most essential step for anybody searching for a used, grey market, or classic Rolex is to discover a vendor you belief, says Paul Altieri, founder and CEO of pre-owned watch website Bob’s Watches. “Buying from a good seller is paramount,” Altieri says. “To vet a vendor, examine their credentials, buyer critiques, and their standing within the watch neighborhood.”
Eugene Tutunikov, CEO of SwissWatchExpo, an internet retailer of genuine, pre-owned luxurious watches, suggests consumers search for a strong presence on-line with verifiable testimonials from precise clients. He additionally says signal of an sincere dealer is an affiliation with The Worldwide Watch & Jewellery Guild or American Watchmakers & Clockmakers Institute.
Tutunikov additionally says clients ought to ask in regards to the vendor’s “capacity to supply authenticity ensures and warranties on every of their watches, which suggests they’ve gone by way of thorough inspection and upkeep earlier than being put up on the market.”
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One other signal of an sincere dealer is “they’re going to be open to your watch being authenticated at a Rolex retailer or licensed seller,” Tutunikov says. “At SwissWatchExpo, we welcome purchasers to have their watches checked at a certified seller for his or her peace of thoughts.”
Non-public sellers are more durable to vet. However when you’re contemplating a deal, additional due diligence is vital. “Ask for detailed images, the watch’s papers, and repair historical past,” says Altieri. “We by no means suggest shopping for from Craigslist, on-line boards, or eBay.”
If the vendor cannot meet these requirements, stroll away.
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2. It is Too Light-weight
Patrons of any Rolex mannequin are plunking down amount of cash on a watch, so seeing a second-hand piece in actual life is right. Do not simply ogle it; decide it up.
The texture of an actual Rolex is tough to pretend on a budget. However for many who’ve by no means held one or worn a chunk on their wrist, the watches have some weight.
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“Rolex watches are made out of high-quality supplies throughout,” Tutunikov says. “From the band of the watch to the inside working of the palms and gears, every merchandise of a Rolex is made with the very best metals out there. Meaning your Rolex must be hefty!”
One caveat: Newer fashions have bracelets comprising strong stainless-steel hyperlinks, whereas extra classic fashions might have bracelets made with hole hyperlinks. When unsure, gauge the burden of the case.
If the watch feels extremely mild, that is indicator it is a pretend.
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3. The Metals and Finishes Are Inconsistent
For almost 20 years, Rolex has been creating its personal distinctive supplies in its foundry. “These embrace 904L stainless-steel, gold, 950 platinum and, extra lately, grade 5 titanium parts,” says Tutunikov. “The usage of these high-quality supplies are unusual in counterfeit watches as a result of value these entail.”
When you’re trying into a specific mannequin, analysis the case and bracelet supplies. Additionally notice that completely different fashions are completed with various strategies. Some components may be brushed whereas others may be polished.
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“Rolex makes use of a wide range of finishes of their timepieces, the standard of that are extremely difficult for counterfeiters to duplicate,” Tutunikov says. Ensure you perceive the particular kind of ending the mannequin you are contemplating ought to have.
“If the watch has an uneven end, or would not match the end of the mannequin—whether or not brushed, satin, or polished—it is doubtless a pretend,” he says.
Courtesy of SwissWatchExpo
4. The Dial Is Sloppy
In response to Altieri, it is best to search for misaligned components, uneven fonts, and subpar supplies on the dial. These are all pink flags. So are smudges, that are a useless giveaway that cheaper printing strategies had been used on counterfeit items.
One of many causes of us purchase a Rolex is for the standard and a spotlight to element. “Rolex adheres to the very best requirements in relation to the design, supplies, and manufacturing of its watches,” says Tutunikov. “If any minute element falls in need of perfection, the watch is probably going a counterfeit.”
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5. The Cyclops Magnification Is Wonky
Most up to date fashions with a date complication function a “cyclops,” or a magnifier over the date window. Many knockoffs fail to convincingly replicate the two.5x magnification.
“Even with high-quality fakes, there are particulars that betray them,” Altieri says.
Courtesy of SwissWatchExpo
6. The Seconds Hand Ticks
A real Rolex’s second hand ought to transfer across the dial fluidly. “The seconds hand is an important indicator of a pretend Rolex,” says Tutunikov. “Whereas the principle hand of the watch will tick because it strikes all through the hours, the seconds hand shouldn’t tick. As an alternative, on an actual Rolex, the seconds hand will transfer in a easy movement across the clock.”
Some fakes are fairly good, and never solely handle to realize this movement, however are additionally extremely arduous to differentiate from the true deal. After all, these clones go for far more than the $50 to $100 typical asking value.
“For the $1,000 ‘Tremendous Fakes’ as we name them, they are often actually tough for the novice watch fanatic to determine,” Tutunikov says. “These actually should be inspected by an skilled watchmaker who will open the caseback and examine the motion and inside of the case for minor inadequacies.”
Courtesy of SwissWatchExpo
7. Lacking Serial Numbers
Each real Rolex has a definite serial quantity to exactly doc the mannequin and yr of manufacture. For watches made earlier than 2005, that serial quantity must be engraved between the decrease lugs (close to 6 o’clock).
For items made between 2005 and 2008, the serial quantity is engraved on the case between the lugs and on the inside rehaut (the metallic ring between the dial and the crystal). Newer timepieces’ serial numbers are discovered solely within the rehaut.
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“Real Rolex watches bear deeply and exactly engraved serial and mannequin numbers, displaying strong strains that glisten within the mild, paying homage to a diamond-cut edge,” says Tutunikov.
Conversely, counterfeit Rolex watches typically function serial and mannequin numbers which might be faintly dotted or seem sandy, on account of sub-standard etching strategies.”
He additionally warns that counterfeiters ceaselessly reuse the identical serial and mannequin numbers throughout completely different kinds, which is a giveaway. Real Rolex watches possess distinctive numbers that correspond to their particular mannequin and configuration.
Courtesy of SwissWatchExpo
8. Worth Is Too Good to Be True
“A real Rolex holds its worth extremely properly, so be cautious of low costs that do not align with the market,” Altieri says. You all the time wish to examine and examine costs with different pre-owned retailers.
“By doing so, you not solely make sure you discover the very best deal on the watch, but in addition simply determine when a watch is being bought at an unrealistically low value,” Tutunikov provides.
So if the deal is just too good to be true, it in all probability is, and it is best to run, not stroll away.
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